First take look at your living environment.
Do you have a big house, small house or apartment?
Do you live in the city, a suburban area or rural area?
Do you live by a lake or the ocean or near a forest or mountainous area?
Is it a hot climate, cold, or one that has all four seasons?

Do you have a small yard, big yard, acres of land or no yard at all?
Is your yard fenced? If you don’t have a fenced yard you need to be prepared to walk your dog multiple dogs every day.

Different breeds are a better fit for different environments. For example, you don’t want to get an active medium or large breed dog that loves to run and needs lot’s of exercise if you live in an apartment. Breeds that were meant for cold climates don’t do well in the heat, unless you want to spend the money to have them clippered down. Dogs with strong prey drives, like terriers and hunting dogs, will run off after squirrels, rabbits and other prey. If not fenced in, they are at risk of getting lost or hit by a car.

Next, consider your living situation.
Do you have a small baby or will you be planning to start a family?
Do you have small children or teenagers?
Are you a single person or a couple living alone?
Do you travel often? What will you do with your dog?
Do you have guests over frequently? Do you want a giant breed greeting and interacting with them?
Many breeds are wonderful with either a single person or a family with children, however, some, like Golden Retrievers are much more tolerant of young children than some breeds. Toy breeds can be fragile and some breeders prefer they not go to a home with any children under the age of 8.

What type of personality do you have?
Really, you ask? What’s my personality got to do with the breed of dog I get?
Well, just as people have different personalities, so do dogs.
People and dogs can be outgoing, quiet, assertive, shy, aggressive, talkative, thoughtful, inquisitive, energetic, calm, etc. Some dogs are more of a barker than others, some howl.
If a person is more of a shy or calm type of person they may not appreciate or want to deal with the high energy of a terrier and vice versa. An active person who likes to hike or roller blade would fit well with a high energy dog that can keep up if they want their dog to enjoy these types of activities also. A couch potato type person would fit best with a couch potato type of dog, or a dog with a calm energy like a golden retriever or a small dog in the toy breed group.

Another thing to consider is the care required for the breed of dog you get.
Do you want a dog that needs regular professional grooming, a long-haired breed that will require frequent combing and may leave a lot of hair around, a short-haired breed or one that doesn’t shed much at all.

Are you looking for a big dog to provide protection? Be careful with this idea. Any dog will alert you to strangers but if you want a bigger breed as a protector you should be an experienced dog owner. These breeds are not for beginner dog owners or those with a “soft” personality. A barking dog will scare away most intruders no matter what breed it is, however, there are breeds, like Airedale Terriers, that are great family pets and excellent protectors.
If an intruder is not afraid of a barking dog they likely will have planned for a way to work around that. They may bring meat with them to occupy the dog or even may kill the dog. If you want protection get an alarm system for your house or buy and learn how to use a gun. Getting a dog for protection only isn’t a good idea.

Now lets look at the breeds as a group to help narrow down the field.

Toy breeds – These dogs are very small and more fragile than bigger breeds though they can be full of energy. Just because they are small does not mean they are wimpy, they will stand their ground and it’s not unusual to see a toy breed back down a larger breed. They shed little and are good apartment dogs.

Sporting group – These dogs enjoy the woods and the water and usually have well-rounded personalities but they do need exercise and enjoy a good hearty workout.

Non-Sporting – This is a diverse group of dogs and are a varied collection in terms of size, coat, personality and overall appearance.

Herding dogs – These dogs are herders and they are remarkable at how the can control the movement of other animals. These are intelligent dogs, easy to train and make good companions. They have a very strong need to herd, however, so unless they have a “job”, they can become frustrated and take out this frustration on you, your children or your household belongings. It is not uncommon for people to complain that their herding dog is “biting” their children, when, in fact, they are nipping and “herding” them. If you choose a herding breed, be prepared to give them plenty of exercise and something to keep that herding instinct busy in a productive manner.

Hound group – Most of the dogs in the group have been or are used for hunting. Some are these dogs have amazing scent abilities while others have a large amount of stamina. Some of these dogs bay, or howl. If you haven’t heard this sound make sure you get familiar with it before you get one of these dogs.

Working dogs – These are large breed dogs, strong and powerful. These aren’t a good breed for a new dog owner. They are smart dogs but need an owner who has experience training and handling this type of dog.

Terrier group – You could also call this the Terror group (just kidding, sort of). These are feisty, energetic dogs and often have little tolerance for other animals, including other dogs. They can be quite assertive and do best with an equally assertive owner who can establish clear rules, boundaries and limitations.

Misc dogs – This is a group of relatively rare or new to AKC breeds. Research them further if you have an interest in one of these.

No article can tell you exactly which breed of dog is right for you but can assist you with making sure you ask the right questions and give you some resources to check out. There are hundreds of different dog breeds so you will need to do some additional research to determine the best breed for your situation. Your research of the different breeds will help you to get a better understanding of what might be a good fit for your environment. The purpose of this article is to help you formulate your questions and provide a little direction for finding the best breed for you.

The dog you get will live with you for the next 10-15 years so some careful thought should be given and research done to determine the best breed for you. Both you and your dog will appreciate that you put in some work now to identify the type of dog that will fit in well in your life.

This web site (http://www.akc.org/breeds/#) will allow you to view each dog by group and by breed. You can see on the left column links to view the dogs by breed and by group. There is a picture of each dog and by clicking on it you can get a good description of the different characteristics of that breed.

Where should I get my dog?

If you decide you want to get a pure breed dog then find the best breeder you can, one who does health certifications, belongs to their National Breed Club and sells their dogs with a written contract and health guarantee. Ironically, a well-bred purebred dog is often less expensive than those sold in stores. Never, ever buy a dog from a pet store! All those puppies come from puppy mills. If you aren’t familiar with “puppy mills” just Google the term and read about the horrible conditions in which these dogs live. No matter what they tell you, no ethical breeder would ever sell pups to a store. In fact, it is cause for dismissal from the National Breed clubs. Likewise with the internet. Buyer beware! There are hundreds of websites with pictures of cute puppies next to flowers or with ribbons in their hair when the reality is that they were born in a horrible puppy mill type situation. Research your breeder and go to visit if at all possible. To find a quality breeder start by looking for the breeder club of the state you live in and you can use the link provided above for the AKC.
You may pay a little more but its worth it to get a dog that is properly bred, is healthy and has the correct temperament of that breed.

If you can’t afford or don’t care about having a quality purebred pup you will be just as well off adopting a dog from a local shelter.
There are many dogs available at rescue facilities that can be a good companion for you. National Breed Clubs also sponsor the rescue of their own breeds so they can point you in the direction of a purebred rescue. There are frequently purebred dogs at shelters, through no fault of their own, but the result of someone NOT doing their homework and buying the wrong breed for their lifestyle and then discover that breed just isn’t a good fit for them. Some of these dogs will be mixed breeds, so by reviewing the various breeds you will get a better understanding of what the dog may be mixed with to determine if it might be a good fit.

This will be a new member of your family and you should take the time to find just the right one. You will be rewarded with many years of loyalty and unconditional love.

A few words about training.

Be sure to start training your dog on day one and consistently reinforce the behavior you want and ignore or discourage the behavior you don’t want. Nearly all behavior problems are the result of poor or inconsistent training and not properly socializing your dog with other dogs and humans. Establishing clear rules, boundaries and limitations so your dog understands your expectations will create a happier and well-behaved pet.

It can be helpful to remember that even though we all love our dogs very much, they are not human. They don’t think like or rationalize like a human does. They are very eager to please and whatever behavior you praise, laugh at or give comfort to is a behavior that your dog will continue to do.
There are two very common mistakes people make with their dogs.
The first one is to comfort their dog when it is anxious, nervous or scared and this just reinforces that behavior.
The second thing is showing excitement when your dog is overly excited, such as when you first come home or see the dog after an absence. The excited human makes the dog even more excited and it is nearly impossible to control an excited dog. Remember, excited does not necessarily mean happy, an aggressive dog will also show a high level of excitement and it may not be at all happy at the time.
A doggie obedience class with your new friend can make a big difference and create a happier, well-adjusted dog.

The bad news is this can be a big problem.
A dog that can’t be brushed or groomed because they are so unruly, with barking, biting and overall struggling, is going to develop problems. You won’t be able to trim their nails easily so you will more often than not let it go. The nails will get too long and can even curl around and start growing back into the leg. They can cause the toes to splay, resulting in flat feet and back problems. Walking can become painful because the nails are so long and of course they will easily scratch you. This also increases the risk of a nail getting caught on something and ripping off which may need vet care.

If you can’t comb or brush your dog they will get mats in their hair. These mats also become irritating to the dog which would feel like continuously having your hair pulled. You also cannot bathe the dog because when they get wet it will tighten the mats and become painful for the dog which also makes it much more difficult for the mats to be removed. When this happens you will need to go to a groomer and get the dog de-matted and this can be time-consuming for a groomer and costly for the customer. In many cases the only thing a groomer can do is shave the dog entirely.

The good news is, you can train your dog to accept being groomed, combed or brushed and have its nails trimmed without struggling.
At the earliest age possible introduce your little friend to these items:
- Comb and brush
- Nail clippers or a dremmel
- Electric clippers. If you don’t have professional clippers and don’t plan to use them to groom, you can use an electric shaver.
- A bottle of shampoo

The purpose at this stage is to just get your dog used to them, not actually groom them.
Again, at the earliest age possible, take each foot and gently massage it. You want your dog to allow you to touch and hold his feet without a reaction.
Look in his ears and mouth also so he can get used to someone doing that.
If you have an older dog who is difficult follow the same procedures as if it were a puppy.

At first, just let them smell and get used to what these tools are, but do not ever let them bite these tools.
A dog’s strongest sense is smell. Hold the tools out for your dog to sniff them then place them against the dog so he can feel them.
Turn on the clippers or razor and just let them feel the vibration of it and get used to the sound.
Continue doing this exercise until your dog accepts the tools and products as nothing special and is not bothered by the sound of the clippers or the feel of the vibration.
Also continue touching/holding each foot to keep him used to having them touched and held.

Next, you will start to use the tools on your puppy but before you do take him for a nice long walk. A tired dog will be more relaxed and easier to work on.

Now, just start with the basics. Get a brush or comb while he is sitting or lying down and just sit with him, gently pet him. This isn’t playtime, its time to be relaxed, so do not show any excitement. When he is calm, slowly brush or comb him. If he starts to bite at the brush or struggle, stop, wait a few moments and try again. If it is a difficult dog don’t try to comb him from head to tail. Instead just pick a smooth part of the body and brush there. As long as your dog is ok with what you are doing keep going. You should try to do it everyday in the beginning and you may need to do this for a few days or a week depending on how often you do it. Reward him when he is good.

You can also just let your grooming tools/products stay near him if he is just laying quietly somewhere so he learns that seeing them doesn’t mean anything is going to happen but never allow him to play with or chew on them.

Gradually increase the amount of time you spend combing him but always do it gently and slowly. Try trimming a toenail and if that goes well do another.
A note about nail trimming. We prefer to use a dremmel, the kind you can get at Home Depot. This allows you to get the nails shorter and you can round them off so they are nice and smooth.

Do not yell at him if he doesn’t get it right away. You need to be calm. When you do an exercise always end on a positive note and be sure you don’t stop this exercise when he is acting up or struggling or you will reinforce in him that acting up gets you to stop.

If you do these things often and calmly you CAN get him to enjoy being groomed and the professional groomers will really appreciate this and have a much easier time. If he is running away put a leash on him before you get any grooming tools to practice these exercises.

How is he when you bathe him?
If that’s a problem follow the same kind of steps and remember don’t yell at him.
Some dogs like to bite at water from a hose which makes it very difficult to give them a bath.
To stop this behavior first introduce your dog to a hose with the water off.
Note: it will probably be mush easier to do this training with your dog on a leash.
Move the hose around, hold it against him and just let him get used to it. Don’t let him get excited or bite at it.
Next, turn the water on and let it run out of the hose with the hose on the ground. Don’t let him play with it or go after the water. When he is to a point where he ignores this, pick up the hose and spray water. If he shows excitement and bites at it stop and correct him. You don’t need to strike or hit your dog, just a firm “no” (that means firm, not loud).
Continue this exercise until your dog is no longer interested in biting the water or water coming out of the hose.
When you get to the point where your dog will ignore water from a hose, while he is on a leash go (for better control) go ahead and spray him with it. He should stand calmly while you do this. Correct him if he bites at the water. If he doesn’t you are moving too fast so go back to the previous exercises until he is more relaxed with water coming out of the hose.

If your dog is afraid of the water from a hose or Fawcett, introduce it to him slowly and gently for short periods of time. Gradually increase the time as he gets used to it and remains calm.

When your dog is good or when you finish an exercise, reward him with a treat.

Don’t forget to exercise him before you start, he will be more relaxed. A walk is better than running around as a high energy session will get his adrenaline going.

This will work but you need to do it often and be calm and consistent.

A long-haired dog will likely need combing once a day. Mats and tangled hair can form very quickly on long-haired breeds so be thorough and comb everywhere including the chest and underarms, the tail and around the butt.

With a long-haired breed you should use a comb, not a brush. The soft bristles of a brush won’t get down to the skin to separate the hair and will just smooth the top. The teeth of a comb will reach down to the skin and when you comb it will pull out the loose hair in the undercoat as well as separate the hair to prevent tangles and mats. Combing often will also alert you to any bugs like fleas or ticks, will help you to quickly identify any skin conditions before they get bad, and keep your dog cleaner.

A well-groomed dog will feel better, look better and keep your house cleaner.
Most all dogs will come to enjoy this time you spend together and it can be a relaxing experience that your dog will enjoy and further strengthen the bond between you. It will also be one more thing that will help to reinforce that you are the leader.

Dogs are carnivores. They can become what is called an “obligate omnivore”, meaning if they can’t get the meat they are supposed to have, they will eat whatever is available to survive. That doesn’t mean it is what they SHOULD eat, simply that they will if they have no other choice. It bears repeating. Dogs are carnivores. Whether it be a chihuahua or a Great Dane, the dentition and digestive system of domestic dogs is still identical to that of the wolf. Their teeth are designed for chewing raw meat and crushing raw bone. Their stomach acid is much, much stronger than ours and their intestines much, much shorter, all designed for the processing of raw meat and bone.

For optimum health, you need optimum nutrition. Your dog can survive on highly processed food, much the same as we could survive on Pop Tarts and candy but common sense tells us that is not a healthy way to eat. Our pets are at the mercy of what we feed them. Like us, fresh, real food is far more healthy than processed food, artificial flavorings, preservatives, salt, sugar, etc. Like the old dog food commercials used to say “Meat costs more than cereal”, though ironically, the makers of that food were filling it full of grains and meat by-products not fit for consumption.

Years ago, I started asking myself why we were seeing so many long-term chronic health problems in dogs, both purebred and mutt. I was breeding the best purebred dogs I could, doing health clearances on any used in my breeding program and studying canine genetics. Still, when I pulled that food out of a bag, my gut told me something was wrong with this picture. I knew several show breeders that had gone to raw feeding. Raw chicken with bones flies in the face of what we have been taught. Remember though, that vets are often taught everything they know about nutrition by a representative from Purina or Hill’s, the makers of Science Diet. Of course those companies do not want us to consider anything that doesn’t come in one of their bags! So I began to research raw feeding. The more I studied, the more convinced I became as to the value of real, fresh, raw food. Do NOT let anyone (including your vet) tell you that raw chicken with bones will kill your dog. While they may have horror stories of dogs getting pancreatitis or perforated intestines from chicken bones, invariably, those were cooked. COOKED bones splinter, raw bones do not. Cooked skin and fat can cause pancreatitis, raw skin and fat is full of those wonderful omega fatty acids that give healthy skin and coat. If raw meat and bones would kill a dog, why aren’t all the wolves dead? When you go to the zoo, you do not see them whipping out a bag of Lion Chow. They are fed species appropriate food, which in the case of almost all predators, is raw meat and bone.

Another scare tactic is salmonella. Humans are susceptible to salmonella “poisoning” because we have a lower pH stomach acid and a much, much longer intestinal tract, designed for processing fruits and vegetables. Most of the salmonella is either killed by their stomach acid or eliminated by their short gut before it can multiply and cause sickness. Dogs are not susceptible to salmonella unless they are already ill or in a weakened immune state, which in most cases, ironically, is brought on by poor nutrition in the first place.

Armed with my new information, I decided to take the plunge and start feeding raw chicken with bones to my show dogs. First, you should not feed weight-bearing bones as these can sometimes splinter, so I do not recommend legs. Best is chicken backs, which are smaller, easily crushed bones, and also include bits of offal, heart, kidney, liver, etc and they are generally inexpensive. I pay .69/lb for them which is typically less than the price of cheap, processed commercial food. When I began feeding raw chicken, several things became rapidly apparent. Dogs who’s teeth were caked with plaque and due for a teeth cleaning, within weeks of eating raw chicken, had shiny, white teeth. Dogs who, in the past, didn’t care who shared their food with them, ran off with their precious prize, shaking with excitement and fully consuming it immediately, lest someone else steal it from them. The other thing that shocked me was the bitches with puppies. I watch a lot of nature shows and have seen the footage of wolves, coyotes, lions and others eating raw meat and then regurgitating the chunks for their weaning pups. None of my bitches had EVER regurgitated processed food for her pups, however as soon as I started feeding raw chicken, this is exactly what they did. It was glaringly apparent that until then, nothing I had fed them was “worthy” of feeding to their precious young.

The other myth perpetuated by all too many makers of dog food and even many veterinarians is to keep the dog on the same food for life. If you want to CAUSE an allergy, expose the body to the same thing, day after day, year after year. I worked in a hospital lab for almost thirty years so became allergic to latex. Many people become allergic to antibiotics that they have been given repeatedly. The same is true with all living things. The idea behind proper canine nutrition is to mimic what they would get in the wild. They eat what they can catch or find, generally something different every day. It is important that we vary the protein source with our dogs. It is also a myth that they need 100% of their daily requirements in every meal. We humans don’t even eat that way! Ian Billinghurst, a vet from Australia, has written several books on raw feeding, including “Give Your Dog A Bone” and “Grow Your Pups With Bones”. I highly recommend his books. His mantra is “balance over time through variety”. Good advice for us and our pets.

Fortunately for convenience, pet food companies started realizing the market for quality food from whole, healthy ingredients. The first ingredient listed on a bag of pet food should ALWAYS be the main protein source, which should be meat, poultry or fish. The specific ingredient listed first should be the actual type, as in beef or chicken or salmon. If it just lists meat-by-products stay away from it. Also, it is a good idea to always rotate your protein source. If this bag was fish, make the next lamb, then chicken, etc. While these top shelf foods are far better than the old, cheap garbage filled kind, I still believe in adding whole fresh food, like raw chicken backs, raw eggs, yogurt, canned mackerel and table scraps. Just remember that table scraps are what is left on your plate. Never feed cooked bones or skin. You can find all these high-end foods at your local Petsmart and will also notice that they have their aisles in order of price. Stay on the high-end and don’t forget to alternate your protein source.

There is also a product made by Nature’s Variety (Instinct Raw) that my vet carries, as does our local feed store. You can find a local outlet for it online at their website. It is a wonderful variety of raw meat in the form of frozen patties, making feeding raw very easy. It is also a great way to add new protein sources that are not easy to find, like rabbit, venison and duck. This is not only healthy for them but a great way to do an elimination diet if you suspect your dog is suffering from food allergies. You need a unique protein source, something they have never had before. Keep them strictly on that and nothing else for at least two months. That means nothing else, no treats either. Then if you see improvement, you know there is a food allergy and can gradually add back in other things, one at a time, very, very slowly until you figure out what they are allergic to. The most common food allergies for dogs in here in the US is beef and wheat. In New Zealand, it is lamb. Again, it’s the result of what they were exposed to over and over again.

One final thing worth mentioning is treats. The dog food companies that produce high quality food, also produce treats to go with them, even treats intended for dogs with allergies. It’s as important that the treats be as healthy as their main source of food. Baby carrots make great treats. While dogs can easily digest meat and bone, they cannot digest rawhide and I don’t recommend its use. In fact, some rawhide produced outside of the US, is actually processed with arsenic! For recreational chewing, I recommend raw marrow bones, found in the meat department of your grocery store. They will get many hours of happy chewing and the marrow is very nutritious. Just make sure it’s raw and do NOT cook them first. In fact, we give our 6 dogs marrow bones after we freeze them. Frozen makes them last even longer, however, once they have removed all the marrow and the bone becomes dry, brittle and starts to chip, it should be discarded. Getting all the marrow out of the bone may take just a few hours for a large breed dog but may take days for a small breed. Our golden retriever can get all the marrow out and start to chip the bone in just an hour or two so we are careful to take it away from her then. On the other hand, our terriers enjoy the bones for almost a week. If you have multiple dogs you should separate them when you give them their bones to prevent any stealing and fighting. If its small dogs give them the bones in their crate and keep the bones in the crate and they will enjoy them whenever it’s time to get in the crate.

Also, avoid any edible products produced in China. The words Made in China are sometimes in very, very small print on the package but there have been multiple toxic pet products from there over the past several years.

Our mothers used to say “you are what you eat” and there is great truth in that. Just like the old “garbage in, garbage out” adage. Feeding high quality food costs more than feeding garbage but you will be rewarded with a healthy, happy dog and fewer visits to the vet.

Some people think that because their dog has AKC papers, they must be good! My mantra is “AKC is to dogs, as the DMV is to cars.” They simply keep records. You can literally register a puppy born with serious birth defects. In defense of AKC, it is not their job to “police” the quality of dogs. That is up to the individual owners and breeders.

If you bought from an online commercial breeder, a pet store or a breeder that does not show, the odds are pretty slim that the dog is truly show quality. If you want to show, you must take the time to research your breed, go to dog shows and talk to multiple breeders who show their dogs. When you are ready to purchase a puppy that you want to enter in dog shows be prepared to be put on a waiting list for a puppy with show quality potential. Notice I said “potential”. Puppies go through many changes and that pup that looked great at 8 weeks, could well “fall apart” by 6 months. Some breeders will guarantee that if a pup doesn’t turn out, they will give you another one but the conditions of any sale are dependent on whatever the individuals involved decide.

The original purpose of dog shows was to bring together breeding stock. Long before the internet, this was how people came to look for stud dogs, compare their own breeding stock to what others had and find something to improve upon their own breeding program. That is still the main purpose for showing but it is also a fun, competitive hobby. Also, that Championship certificate is verifiable proof of the quality of your dog. You can SAY your dog is gorgeous, but we all know that opinion is clouded by your love for your dog.

In order to earn a championship, a dog must earn 15 points, including two majors under two different judges. Points are determined by the number of dogs in competition and this number is determined by AKC, depending on the density of the breed in your location. A dog can win between 1 and 5 points in any given show. A “major” is a 3, 4 or 5 point win and is highly coveted as it is difficult to have enough dogs in competition to constitute a major and then there are that many more dogs that your dog needs to be better than.

If you already own an AKC registered purebred dog that you think you might like to show, the first step is finding a show breeder that can evaluate it. Find the AKC standard for your breed and memorize it! Have that experienced show breeder explain to you how to compare that standard to your dog and point out to you what are minor faults and what are major faults? Some dogs will have DQ’s or disqualifications. These are things that would prevent them from being shown at all. For example, boxers in any color other than fawn or brindle or with white markings exceeding 1/3 of total coat color, Cardigan Welsh Corgis with blue or partially blue eyes or drop ears, Weimaraners that are more than one inch over or under the standard height are just few of the traits which would have a dog or bitch disqualified from competition. Also, any dog of any breed that does not have two normal sized, normally located testicles would also be DQ’d. Keep in mind, anyone can enter any unspayed or unneutered dog in any AKC show if they are registered. There are no refunds so if you enter a dog with a DQ, when the judge finds the disqualifying fault, you will simply be excused from the competition ring.

If you really want to do this, put in the time to educate yourself, have your dog evaluated and then find a local handling class to teach you how to properly exhibit your dog at a dog show. Excellent examples of a breed can leave the ring without a ribbon due to inferior handling or the improper grooming and/or conditioning of your dog. Conversely, a dog with a few minor faults can win because it may be shown to its best advantage in superior condition.

Another thing to ask local show people about is what is called a Fun Match. These are set up just like an AKC dog show but in a more relaxed, friendly environment. It is basically a training show and no points are awarded but it is a great way to let both you and your dog experience showing without fear of ridicule. It is for new handlers, new judges and new dogs. Even those of us that have been showing for decades still use fun matches as a way to introduce puppies to the ring and get them used to the process.

If you put in the time, learn to handle and condition your dog and find that your dog is indeed show quality, then all is takes is ONE time in the ring, having that judge look at all those dogs and then point at YOU, and you will be hooked.

By Terry and Debbie Vaught
Part of the Family Kennels

Let’s explore what you should be asking yourself before you make the commitment to get a dog. And a big commitment it is.
Once you get a dog it’s going to play a large role in your life for the next 10-15 years, or even longer for some breeds.
If you are thinking of getting a dog, think about 5 years from now, 10 years from now and longer. Are you prepared to accept the responsibility for this dog’s health and well-being for that long of a time period? Remember, this new friend will be totally dependent on you for food, exercise, vet care and a safe environment, as well as love and companionship.

Some people get a dog just because they think it would be good for their kids.
If you are an adult thinking about getting a dog for the kids, what about 5 years down the road? Or 10 years? Children’s priorities change as they age. They go away to college, they get involved in different activities and they find themselves getting boyfriends and girlfriends which changes the amount of time they have to take care of a dog. As a parent, if you get a dog for your kids, are you prepared to take over increasing amounts of responsibility as the dog and your children age? Are you prepared for the financial responsibility that goes with dog ownership?

Should kids have a dog?
Under the right circumstances, absolutely! A dog can become a real best friend and teach your children responsibility and unconditional love.
But this is a decision that the parents need to consider carefully.
Is your child mature enough to properly take care of the dog?
Will you be available to closely supervise and train the dog as well as train your child how to properly interact and care for his new friend?
Are you willing to take on full responsibility for the dog if needed?

Do you have any other pets, like a cat?
Many dogs and cats learn to live together and become friends, or at least tolerate each other. Keep in mind, some dogs and cats never get along. Generally, however, if the dog you bring in is a puppy, it will become friends with the cat. It is a consideration, however, if you bring in an adult dog.

Are you an experienced dog owner or will this be your first one?
If this is the first time you will ever own a dog, there will be some surprises.
Yes, they will likely have some accidents in the house until they are house trained to go outside. It will take time and effort on your part to train your dog to do this.
They may jump all over guests that come to your house.
They may chew on rugs and furniture.
They may bark or even howl, especially certain breeds like bassetts, beagles and huskies.
They may not be friendly to your guests or to other dogs.
They will get sick and need vet care, especially as they get older.
They can suffer from broken bones, pulled muscles and tendons, get skin ailments, infections and all the same injuries that happen to people from time to time.
Do you travel a lot? Who will care for your dog?
Who will exercise your dog? This is often one of the bigger problems of dog ownership. Too many people just don’t have the time or willingness to exercise their dog. Many people think that because they have a big house or yard that they won’t need to give their dog exercise. This is just wrong.
Dogs get bored easily. After some time they will have explored all the areas of your yard and lose interest in it. They love to explore new places and find new smells. If you will not be able to provide a lot of exercise do not get a big dog. A small breed still needs exercise but will adapt better to a smaller environment.

If you are going to get a dog consider your family situation and environment.
Do you have a fenced yard? Many quality breeders will not sell a dog to someone without a fenced yard. It increases the chances of them getting away, getting lost or hit by a car and getting the proper exercise.
Dogs can be good pets for those without fences, but it will need to be walked every day, multiple times per day if you have a bigger or more energetic breed.

Dogs are wonderful pets but there are 6-8 million dogs in shelters as of 2011. Many of those end up in shelters because people get a dog without realizing everything involved in dog ownership. After they do realize what’s involved too many of these dogs end up on the street, in a rescue facility or just given away to the first person who will take it and who may or may not provide good care.

This article is intended to make sure you understand the commitment and responsibility required to own a dog, not discourage you from getting one. We own several and can’t imagine life without them. Most of the pitfalls can be avoided by proper training and making sure to get the kind of dog that fits your family and your situation. All dogs should be crate trained. It helps with house breaking, gives the dog a safe “den” to take some time away from young children or when you have company. A dog that is in his crate, when you can’t be watching him, can’t chew things up! Eventually, he will get past the destructive age with your help. A well-trained dog is a joy and can be taught not to jump on guests and to obey your commands. There is an old saying amongst “dog people”. If you want to know the value of a well-trained dog, try buying one from someone who has put in the time to thoroughly train their dog. The general answer is “no amount of money”.

Choosing wisely in the first place is critical. If you or a family member has allergies or you just wouldn’t have the time to comb the dog every day, get a non shedding breed, like an airedale, poodle or the Portuguese Water Dog. There are several non shedding breeds. If you aren’t going to have time to take long walks, get a small dog. Toy breeds tend to be fragile and are not typically a good choice for homes with very small children. Put the time and effort into researching breeds and deciding what would best suit your household.

After you have considered all the factors involved in dog ownership and still decide to get one, consider rescuing a dog from a shelter. These can make wonderful pets and you will doing a good service. That being said, there are good reasons to get a purebred
dog instead.
If you put in the time to choose the dog that is right for your family and commit to training and proper care, you will be rewarded with loyalty, companionship, lots of fun moments and unconditional love for many years.

By Terry and Debbie Vaught

Terry and Debbie are the owners of Part of the Family Kennels. This is a pet boarding kennel and grooming business serving the Tampa, FL area. We have extensive experience in pet care, breeding and showing dogs. If you are going to be in the Tampa area and need a kennel or grooming service please contact us.

Here is a place where you can see just about every breed and category, and you can sort based on the characteristics you’re looking for.

Also, it’s a pretty fun page just for browsing different breeds.

www.breedbreakdown.com/

Where Pets Feel At Home

Before you are ready to travel, take your dog on a number of car rides to ensure he is used to traveling and to give you an idea of how he will do.
Make these trips fun so your dog associates it with a positive experience. Remember a short trip is different from a long journey. On a long trip your dog will get bored more easily and want to lay down so be sure your vehicle can accommodate that.

Getting a doggie car seat or being able to put your dog in a crate while in your vehicle is a good idea. A sudden stop could result in serious injury for him even if nothing happens to you. Just slamming on the brakes one time could be a very bad experience for your dog. Also, have a plan for if you should have car trouble while on the road. If these type of issues make you nervous you may want to consider leaving your dog at a boarding kennel instead. This might allow you one less worry when you travel knowing your pet is safe and sound and around people who really care about your dogs welfare.

Be sure your dog’s vaccinations are all current, which they always should be, as well as giving him a flea and tick control treatment. These insects may not be a problem where you live but they may be wherever you are going. Bring along his vet records that show when his vaccinations were done as well as any vet care he has received.

A collar with a tag showing his name, address and phone number is helpful. A rabies tag on his collar is not sufficient proof of vaccination because they do not have any identifying information and those tags can easily be moved from dog to dog by just attaching it to another collar.
If he isn’t already, you may want to get him a microchip just in case. Many lost dogs have been recovered from a microchip.

Prepare a doggie suitcase just for him. You will need bottled water, his food and treats, his collar and a leash and any medication he is taking. A retractable leash might be helpful since he will probably not be able to run loose when you stop for a rest. Add in one or two of his favorite toys and be sure to bring some baggies or plastic bags for poop scooping.

Look up the city you are traveling to and identify one or two veterinarians. Map out their address to make things easier in case of an emergency.
You should also identify one or two boarding kennels in the area where you will be staying. You may want to do something for an entire day or overnight and not have a suitable place for you dog to stay so planning for a just-in-case beforehand will save you some work.

When planning your travel keep in mind a trip with your dog may take longer. You will need to make more frequent stops for potty breaks, to allow your dog to stretch his legs and get a little exercise, and have some water.

Another thing to keep in mind is that even the best house-trained dog might have accidents in a strange house or motel room. He will be somewhere he isn’t comfortable with and it isn’t at all uncommon for dogs to have “accidents” while in a strange location.

If you are going to visit and stay with a friend or family member you need to find out if there will be other dogs around. This can be a big problem. Other dogs may not be as well-trained as yours or may not be as friendly . Remember, your dog will be encroaching on this other dogs home and there could be “territorial” issues. Never take someone at their word that their dog is friendly and won’t bother your dog. Whenever you introduce your dog to a strange dog, always make sure both dogs are on a leash. This is very important. The dogs will want to sniff each other in the rear and you should allow this as this is how they identify each other. If one dog begins to stiffen up or display any fear or nervousness immediately separate the dogs. This is a classic type of behavior that leads to one dog attacking the other. Importantly, just because two dogs get along at the first meeting does not mean everything will be ok. Any number of things could change how they interact. You will need to watch your dog very closely during the entire time of your stay. Never, ever just “let the dogs work it out.” Fearful, suspicious, dominant breeds as well as certain other breeds may not mix well.

If you are sure you will be taking your dog with you, then plan carefully and completely. It can be fun to have your dog along if you plan well and take the necessary precautions.

Terry and Debbie Vaught
Where Pets Feel At Home

If you need to find a quality boarding kennel ask your vet or friends who have boarded a dog for a referral. A quality boarding kennel, sometimes referred to as a pet hotel, will usually have real customer testimonials on their website. In addition, be sure to read the kennels web site to learn more about them. Kennels offer a variety of services and some charge for each service as an add-on, such as administering medications, a bath for your dog, fee’s for picking up or dropping off after a certain time of day, etc. Be sure to compare the services offered in addition to the daily boarding rate.

Also, choose a dog kennel where the owners live on site. Most kennels are small businesses and the owners usually live on the property. If you have the chance ask them if you can visit and take a tour of their facility. This will give you an opportunity to get a feel for the owners and see where your dog will be staying.

Another option is a pet sitter and there are some good one’s. However, if they have a family emergency or get sick or have car problems who will take care of your pet? And can you be sure they will be there when they say they will?

Some kennels allow many dogs to be together and interact in a “play yard”.
This is something you will need to think about. While this may sound fun for your dog, keep in mind that some dogs are friendly and may do fine is this environment, others are nervous, some might be timid and some get a little too excited. Nervous, timid or overly excited dogs can cause another dog to react in an aggressive manner towards it. An outbreak of aggression can occur in the blink of an eye before an employee has a chance to react.
Even dogs that have behaved well with their owner at a dog park may act differently in a kennel situation without their owner present.
Should a fight break out, even if kennel employees react immediately, significant injury, with the associated emergency vet bills, can occur. It is a risk and one only you can decide if it’s worth taking.

If you have a dog that may be aggressive to other dogs or to people, or is timid, be sure and tell them when you call to make a reservation. This isn’t something you want them to discover after you have dropped of the dog and left. Some boarding kennels will not accept certain breeds and some will not accept aggressive dogs or dogs with certain behaviors.

Some kennels are better equipped to deal with these kinds of dogs and the one’s that are will also be experienced and better suited for taking care of this type of dog.

If the kennel allows it, and they should, be sure to bring your dogs’ food. An abrupt change in diet can cause diarrhea and intestinal upset so you don’t want your pet to have to eat whatever the kennel provides. Also, be sure to tell them if your dog takes any medications at the time you make the reservation.

Some kennels will allow you to bring your pets bed or a favorite toy as well.

Keep in mind all kennels will require your pet to be up-to-date on vaccinations, which they really should be at all times anyway. They will also want your pet to be current with a flea and tick control product. It doesn’t matter if yours is an “inside” dog. All dogs go outside even if for short periods and a flea or tick can get aboard and hitch a ride. Most kennels will insist on this product being used because they cannot risk any dog bringing in fleas or ticks to their kennel, so it’s in your best interest if the kennel requires this treatment in order to protect your dog. If they don’t require this you may want to consider another option.

When considering which flea and tick product to use when boarding your pet be sure to get one that treats for both fleas AND ticks. Unfortunately, vets sometimes suggest a product that only treats for fleas.

Some boarding kennels provide grooming and nail trimming also, so this can be a good time to get that done while they are there. Again, be sure to request this when you make your reservation so they can schedule it.

When you arrive at the boarding kennel to drop off your dog, say goodbye to your dog outside before you go in. Once you check in, let the kennel employee take the dog and you should not make a big fuss about it. Dogs will sense if you are upset so try to be your normal self. This isn’t the time to hug and kiss and even cry while the kennel help is trying to take the dog into the kennel, it only makes it more difficult for everyone, especially your dog. Your pet will interpret this behavior as a message from YOU that he SHOULD be upset, worried and afraid. He will take his cue from you about whether he is going to like this new place and have fun there.

Be sure the kennel has an emergency contact number just in case they need to reach you or someone who knows you and give them any special instructions.

Boarding your dog is often more difficult for the humans than it is the dog. The dog will adjust quickly and be curious about their new surroundings, new people and new dogs. Dogs are curious animals and most of them are friendly and like to meet new people and other dogs.

People that own and work in boarding kennels do so because they love dogs. They love meeting new dogs and getting to spend time with them. As long as you have researched the kennel and have received good reports from others, or read positive reviews about them, you don’t need to worry about your friend.

Your dog will definitely remember you, even if it’s a long stay, and be excited and happy to see you when you return.

When you pick up your dog and the kennel brings the dog to you don’t make a big fuss or talk in a high-pitched voice or show a lot of excitement. Wait until you get home or outside to do that. Give your dog a little time to calm down and relax.

It is normal for your dog to be more tired than usual when you get home. They had a lot of excitement while you were gone and a routine that was different from what they were used to. Don’t be surprised if they sleep more than usual for 2-3 days after you get back home.

Remember, holidays and during the summer are popular vacation and travel times and they are busy times for boarding kennels so be sure to plan well in advance if you will need their services.

A boarding kennel or pet hotel can be a fun, positive experience for your dog and allow you to have a worry-free vacation or business trip.

By Terry and Debbie Vaught
Part of the Family Kennels
“Where Pet’s Feel At Home”

Some people want to do it because they love their dog so much and they want another just like it. Some think it’s an easy way to make some money. Others think they will create a “new breed”. Some think it would be a lovely, educational experience for their children.

I have been showing and breeding for over 25 years. I like to tell people that breeding dogs, like marriage, is not to be entered into lightly.

First, I’d like to address keeping intact (not spayed or neutered) animals. It’s a well known statistic that most dog bites to humans are from an un-neutered male dog. An intact male dog is like a bull in a pasture. Handy to have if you need him for breeding but can be a real pain in the butt to live with. Intact males mark their territory. It doesn’t matter if they are house broken. They don’t see marking and going potty as the same event at all. Even when going potty, they always save some for marking. It’s why, when walking a male, he can pee on so many interesting verticle things, fire hydrants, trees, posts, etc. Then there is the fact that a male dog can smell a bitch in season from over a mile away, literally. A common complaint of people with young male dogs :
“I don’t understand, he was doing so well with housebreaking and training! Now, at 10 months, he’s peeing in the house, chewing things up, digging out of the yard!” etc. It’s because he can smell a bitch in season somewhere and all that testosterone coursing through his veins makes getting to her “job ONE”. If he can’t get to her, he’ll take out his frustration on you or other pets or your house. Neutered males are much more calm and happy to just be your companion as “job one”.

Intact (not spayed) bitches are an even bigger challenge. First of all, it’s critical that she not be allowed to get pregnant until reaching maturity which is at two years of age. Yes, they can come in season at 6 months, but just like young girls starting to cycle at 12 or 13, their body is just starting to get ready. Their body is not yet mature enough to handle a pregnancy and nursing. The other problem with intact bitches, besides having to handle the bleeding and mood swings every six months, is that every time a bitch goes into season her cervix dilates and she is at risk of getting pyometra. This is a uterine infection that can have very few symptoms but can be very deadly, very quickly. It’s why experienced breeders spay their bitches just as soon as they are done with their last litter.

Is your dog WORTHY of being bred?

Just because they have papers or are AKC registered, that has absolutely NO bearing on the quality of or the health of the individual dog or what genetic health defects they could potentially pass to their offspring. AKC is to dogs, as the DMV is to cars. They simply keep records. An AKC registered dog simply means the parents were registered. This is not to cast any blame on AKC. It is simply not their job.

Responsible breeding is in the hands of each breeder. We that show dogs do so to prove their merit as the breed they represent. It’s easy to think the dog in your home, that you love, is gorgeous. That, however, is frequently what professional or responsible breeders refer to as ” kennel blindness”. We go to dog shows to see how our dogs stack up compared to others in the breed and whether they can win against others of quality. We do this enough times under knowledgeable judges to earn that coveted championship. Even then, the “right” to breed isn’t guaranteed.

What health concerns does your breed have and are you certain that this individual dog neither has them, nor is carrying the genes for them? ALL dogs, both purebred and mutt, have defective genes. As do humans. It’s up to the responsible breeder to do the health clearances for what needs to be prevented in their breed, as well as doing careful pedigree research when choosing potential mates, so as not to produce puppies with hereditary health defects. Sometimes, this means getting OFA certification on hips, so as not to produce pups with hip dysplasia. Just because your dog isn’t lame, doesn’t mean they don’t have or aren’t carrying the gene for hip dysplasia. Sometimes, it means getting their heart certified. You have to know what hereditary problems are a concern in your chosen breed.

Remember, most states now have puppy “lemon laws” and they can come back to you not only for a refund of the full purchase price but also for vet bills incurred. Before even considering breeding, you should have your dog looked at by someone in your breed that shows dogs and have them evaluated. Many inexperienced people don’t realize that their dog has slightly crooked legs, an off-bite, luxating patellas, or a host of other things that could make them a fine pet but an unsuitable breeding specimen.

If you aren’t willing to put in the time and spend the money to breed a quality, healthy purebred dog, you shouldn’t do it at all. There are plenty of mutts and even purebreds at the pound that need rescuing. Even if they ARE a good representative of the breed and have health clearances, breeding to get a clone of what you have now is a truly unrealistic expectation. Even in breeding purebreds, all the puppies in every litter are different. Look at your own children, if you have them. They have the same two parents, but they sure are different, aren’t they? Breeding your dog to another dog would bring in even more genetic diversity than siblings have, which often isn’t a good thing. If you want a dog much like what you have, go back to the breeder and see if you can get a pup from a repeat breeding or similar line.

You think it would be a wonderful experience for your children?
Really? What happens when pups are born malformed or die shortly after birth? What happens when the bitch needs an emergency c-section at 3am? Breeding is not for the faint of heart and should not be done for the entertainment or education of children. There are plenty books and videos for that. Puppies are a huge investment of time, money and energy, especially if you breed a large breed.

Before you enter into breeding, here are a few questions to ask yourself.

Is your dog in excellent health?
Do you have the time and room to care for 6-12 large puppies?
Do you have the proper kennel facilities to care for them and keep them for however long it takes to find proper homes?
Are you prepared to interview prospective buyers to find out if they are the right kind of person and if they have a suitable lifestyle and living arrangements for your puppies?
Will you refuse to sell your pups to someone who doesn’t pass your screening?
Are you in a position to take them back if their owners can’t keep them, even 5-10 years from now?
Do you plan to get all the puppies their first series of puppy shots and a health exam before they are sold as is the law in many states?
If the mom or puppies get sick, do you have the financial capabilities to have them treated by a vet?
Can you keep the pups indefinitely if you have a problem finding a good home for all of them?

If you answered no to any of the above questions, breeding is not right for your family. The last thing any responsible breeder wants to do is add to the shelter population.

Do you think you’ll create a new and wonderful breed? Think again! It takes many, many generations of careful selective breeding to actually “create” a breed. Slapping two dogs together doesn’t create a breed, it creates a mutt. One fallacy is that you will be avoiding the hereditary problems in each of those breeds. Not so!! You will be adding the problems from BOTH breeds to the mix.

The man that started goldendoodles said on his death bed it was the greatest regret of his life. What people don’t realize is that unless you spend many, many generations, breeding in what you want and out what you don’t, all you have is a mishmosh of traits. Some goldendoodle pups will have golden hair, some will have poodle hair, some will have BOTH! Poodles don’t have as much of a problem with hip dysplasia but the lab could give that to the pups. Labs don’t have sebaceous adenitis but the poodle could give that to the pups. Some may require on-going professional grooming, some not.

I am not against doing cross-breeding. I just think you need to be educated and still do the pertinent health testing on the prospective parents. More importantly, you need to be honest with your puppy buyers about what a crap shoot it is with regard to what traits they can expect those puppies to have. If you’re just doing a cross because they are cute and there is a demand, like cockapoos or whatever, while you still have to do your health clearances, I can see the desire to do that. If you are looking for a hypoallergenic dog that doesn’t shed, anything crossed with something that DOES shed is not a good plan. Just choose a non-shedding purebred, like poodles, airedales or kerry blues.

The other thing to consider when doing crosses is size. If you cross a large male to a small female, you can wind up with a bitch in real trouble with fetuses too large for her to carry.

All in all, breeding should never be entered into lightly. Be prepared to invest a great deal of time, energy and money to do it right or do everyone, especially the unwanted dogs at the pound a favor ……don’t do it.

Debbie Vaught
Part of the Family Kennels

Ian Billingshurst, veterinary author of “Give Your Dog A Bone” advises “balance, over time, through variety”.

It’s important to remember that whether it’s a chihuahua or an irish wolfhound, ALL dogs still have the same dentition and digestive systems as wolves. Dogs are carvivores! The vast majority of their diet should be meat and bone. Let me repeat this all to often ignored fact….Dogs Are Carnivores!! They need meat!! While they WILL eat just about anything, the scientific term for this is “obligate omnivore”, that simply means if they can’t get the meat and bone they prefer and should have, they will eat whatever they can to survive. Barely surviving, however, is not a great plan. You could survive on pop tarts and candy, but you don’t have to be a dietician to know that is not a good idea. I repeat, dogs are carnivores. They need meat. They also, like us, need variety.

It is a common fallacy, all to often perpetuated by vets, who are typically taught nutrition in college by a representative of Purina or Hill’s, the makers of science diet, that you should find one food and stick to it for the life of the dog. WRONG!!! If you want to CAUSE an allergy, expose the body to something again and again until the immune system finally screams “ENOUGH”, in the form of an allergy.

While you should gradually introduce a new food, over a week or so, it is important to constantly change the protein source. There are hundreds of brands of food with top quality ingredients these days. If this bag was based on chicken, make the next one fish, the following one lamb, etc. There are also protein sources that are things we wouldn’t find in the grocery store, like venison, rabbit, duck etc. Like the wolf, the dog should get something different on a regular basis.

The quality of the food is also crucial. Just like the old dog food commercial used to say “meat costs more than cereal”. If the food says chicken, then that should be the FIRST ingredient listed. Remember, the ingredients are listed in the order of concentration. You will never see a pack of wolves grazing in a field of corn or wheat. While some dogs do fine with these added fillers, they will never be as healthy as if their food was based on meat, poultry or fish. You will notice that many of the top shelf foods even brag that there is NO grain. Soy and wheat should also be avoided as these are common allergens for dogs. If the ingredient says “meat” it can be any source of “meat” including road kill. yes, you read that right. “Meat” and “Animal” ingredients typically come from rendering plants. They can be any animal in any degree of decay or disease. Any food with these words should be avoided. If it says chicken, it has to be chicken. The government doesn’t care what we feed our dogs, only that the labels be honest.

Spend the extra money on top quality dog food with real meat, fish or poultry as the FIRST ingredient. Rotate the source of protein on a regular basis. Don’t be afraid to feed healthy table scraps…..no cooked bones, skin or fat, please, just what is left on your plate. Don’t be afraid to feed eggs, canned fish and yogurt. Just remember that when adding anything extra do their meal, decrease the amount of kibble so as not to over-feed.

If your pet is already suffering from allergies, rather than continued shots of prednisone and itching meds, which only treat symptoms, not the actual problem, try a food allergy diet. Select a completely unique protein source food. Something they have never had before, like venison, duck or salmon. It will take at least two months to get all the other stuff out of their system and for this to be of any value whatsoever.

It is CRITICAL that they take nothing by mouth but THIS food and water. If they eat even a tiny corner of your toast and happen to be suffering from a wheat allergy, you will be back at square one for another two months. If after two months on this food, you see improvement in their skin and itching, you have your answer. If not, try another protein source. It does take time and committment but you will spend far less money on quality food than you are spending at the vet to constantly treat the symptoms and will be rewarded with a healthier, happier member of your family.